A good regimen for skin care starts with four products: a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer, a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher, and one treatment for your main concern. Cleanse and moisturize morning and night, wear sunscreen every morning, and add anything new one product at a time.
The skin care aisle makes it easy to walk out with ten products on day one. It’s also a fast way to end up with red, stinging skin and no idea which bottle caused it. Starting with four keeps the list of suspects short when something goes wrong, and it shows you what’s working when something goes right.
Below you’ll find what to buy first, the order to apply it in, and how to add everything else without irritating your skin.
The four products to start with
Start by working out your skin type, because it decides which version of each product to buy. The American Academy of Dermatology lists five. Normal skin is smooth and not very reactive. Dry skin feels rough and itchy and is flaky. Oily skin appears shiny. Combination skin is both oily and dry at certain parts. Sensitive skin gets stung or burned when products are applied to it. Should you be unsure which type of skin you have, the AAD recommends seeking advice from a board-certified dermatologist prior to doing anything else.
Cleanser is next on the list. This is a gentle cleanser that cleans dirt, oil, and leftover product to prevent clogging of pores. Cream-based cleansers are typically suited for dry skin, while gel or foaming ones are suitable for oily skin. If you happen to have sensitive skin, it is better to go for an unscented formula. Use lukewarm water, and wash after a workout as well as in the morning and at night. If your face feels tight right after rinsing, the cleanser is too harsh.
The next product to be used is moisturizer, which locks in the water within the skin. You will need it even if you have oily skin; the oiliness just means that the gel or lotion should be lighter than a cream for dry skin. Apply it while your skin is still a little wet from the wash to help lock more moisture into the skin. Lips also get dry, which is why you should add a lip balm that has an SPF during the day.
Sunscreen is the only step in this regimen that you shouldn’t do without, regardless of how much you cut back on others. Choose a broad-spectrum one with at least SPF 30, apply it everywhere except where it is covered by clothes, and repeat every two hours outside or after you swim or sweat. If you have a moisturizer with SPF 30 or higher, that is a combination of two steps in one, although most only go up to 15. The mineral type leaves a white layer, while a chemical/hybrid may suit those with a darker skin tone. Our post on how sunscreen prevents unwanted tanning explains how it works.
The fourth product targets the one concern that bothers you most. Salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide suits breakouts, a vitamin C serum suits dark spots and dullness, and a hyaluronic acid serum suits skin that feels dry and tight. Choose one. If nothing bothers you, skip this step and run on three products. The regimen still works.
The order to apply them
Apply products from thinnest to thickest. In the morning, that means cleanser, treatment, moisturizer, then sunscreen last, because it has to sit on top of your skin to work. At night you do the same without the sunscreen: cleanser, treatment, moisturizer.
Some treatments belong to one half of the day. Vitamin C is normally a morning product while most of the products used for treating acne are applied at night; therefore, follow the instructions on the products you purchase. If your morning moisturizer contains SPF, you should use a simple one at night.
Night cleansing is actually important and the American Academy of Dermatology recommends that you cleanse your skin before applying skin care products and before going to bed in order to remove your sunscreen and daily oils.
How to add the next product
Once the four products feel boring, which is the goal, you can add more. The rule is one product at a time. Give each new one a couple of weeks before you add the next, so you can tell what it’s doing. Patch test first. Dab a little on your jaw or behind your ear, wait a day, and skip the product if the spot turns red or stings. The same goes for anything that burns on your face. Stop using it.
A gentle exfoliant is the usual first addition. Start with once a week and see how your skin responds before going up. Face masks sit in the same weekly slot. If you’d rather use what’s already in your kitchen, we put together three DIY face masks, and the patch test applies to those too.
A retinoid is the strongest addition and comes with the most side effects. Dryness and peeling are common at the start, which is why it should be the only new product in your routine when you begin. Our piece on tretinoin before and after covers what real results and side effects look like.
Eye cream, toner, and extra serums are optional. Skip them unless your skin has a specific problem they would solve.
Mistakes that undo a simple regimen
Changing products every few days is the most common one. It takes weeks, not days for skin to see an effect. So, a skincare product, which seems ineffective on the fourth day, hasn’t been tested properly. Assess a new product only after some time, except for in case of irritation or redness, which requires you to stop its use immediately.
Another mistake is using multiple products in a single regimen. For instance, you could be using an acid, retinoid, and vitamin C serum at night. In case of any reaction, there would be a problem in identifying the product that caused the problem.
The third mistake is forgetting to use sunscreen on days when it’s cloudy or indoors. Your skin will get UV radiation even in the latter case, so it is best to use it every day.
The last one is scrubbing skin. Using clean hands/cloth and lukewarm water will be enough for this purpose. Scrubs and hot water can take away oil from your skin, leaving it dry.
When to see a dermatologist
If breakouts keep coming despite a steady routine, if products sting no matter how gently you start, or if you can’t work out your skin type, a board-certified dermatologist can sort it out faster than another round of products. Prescription options exist for acne and other problems that store-bought products don’t fix.
