A trench coat is an outer layer by design, so it works with almost anything you already own. Start with a neutral base, such as jeans and a knit or a dress and boots, keep what’s underneath shorter than the coat, and belt it at the waist. Beige and camel suit nearly every outfit below.
Most people wear a trench coat one way, over jeans and a sweater, and then wonder why it feels like a uniform. That outfit is fine. It’s also one of many. A trench works over a slip dress, a shirt with wide-leg trousers, and boots of nearly any height, and the coat’s design does a lot of the work for you.
This guide covers what to wear under a trench coat, how it looks with jeans and dresses, which boots go with it, and how to pick a color that suits your wardrobe.
What Makes a Trench Coat Different
A classic trench coat is double-breasted, with a self-belt at the waist, a storm flap, and buttoned straps on the shoulders and cuffs, as Wikipedia’s entry on the trench coat lays out. Those details come from the officers’ coat it started as.
You don’t need the history to style one, but the design explains how the coat behaves. The belt gives you a waist over any outfit. Fit varies by brand, so try the coat on over the sweater you plan to wear under it. Length varies a lot, from just above the knee to near the ankle, and it matters most when you pair the coat with a dress or a pair of boots.
What to Wear Under a Trench Coat
Consider the neckline next. Since a trench coat comes with wide lapels and a collar, which frame the face, something simple will work best. Turtlenecks made from a fine gauge of material or crew neck knits do the trick, while a plain tee works just as well during milder days. The classic choice would be a white button down with the collar worn over the lapels of the trench coat.
Thick layers require a bit more caution, though. While a bulky sweater or a hoodie could bunch around the shoulders of the coat and make it look stiff, a medium weight knit with a scarf should give enough warmth when needed.
The choice of colors is the simplest step in all of this. White or cream top with a beige trench coat will offer low contrast and softness, while black top will create a stronger contrast and can be worn with an open coat. Regardless of the choice, only one piece should stand out. Trench coat with a striped top and patterned trousers would look too busy.
How to Wear a Trench Coat With Jeans
Dark wash jeans are the easiest place to start. Indigo against beige gives you contrast without effort, and both straight and wide-leg cuts sit well under a coat that ends below the knee. Our guide to dark wash jeans for every body type will help you pick the cut, and a cream knit with ankle boots finishes the outfit.
White jeans suit the cooler months better than most people expect. With a stone or beige trench, they make a low-contrast outfit that looks calm and put together. The white jeans outfit ideas we published include neutral knit sweaters, beige and camel among them, and those work under a trench without changing anything else.
If your jeans are baggy or wide, keep the coat belted and the top underneath slim. The belt marks your waist, so the shape holds even when the legs carry a lot of fabric. A coat left open over baggy jeans and a loose sweater tends to look shapeless.
How to Wear a Trench Coat With Dresses
A trench over a dress works best when the dress is shorter than the coat. A slip dress or a knit mini under a knee-length trench looks deliberate. With a midi dress, check the hems before you leave the house. If the dress hangs below the coat, the two hemlines sit almost together and the outfit looks like a mistake.
Tights or sheer socks help in colder weather, and so do boots, which come next. Belt the coat over a fitted dress, and leave it open over a loose one so the dress keeps its shape.
A trench is also a good coat for party season. It covers a dress on the walk from the car and still looks right once you’re inside. If you haven’t picked the dress yet, our holiday dresses guide covers options from work parties to New Year’s Eve.
Which Boots Go With a Trench Coat
The ankle boot is the safest shoe option. This works with both jeans and trousers, as well as dresses that are short and can be paired with the boot. The black leather boot is paired with a beige trench for contrasting colors. Using brown suede or tan-colored boots keeps the color scheme monochromatic.
The knee-high boot works best for midi skirts and dresses as the height of the boot helps to close the gap between the boot and the skirt. It also helps to give a stable heel.
For a bit of a casual look, the lug-sole boot and the chelsea boot can be worn. The flat bottom of the lug-sole boot also makes it ideal for wearing during rainy weather. Pairing this with jeans and knit, along with a belted coat stops the overall look from becoming too slouchy. On weekends, white sneakers are also appropriate with straight-leg jeans.
A Work Outfit That Needs No Planning
A trench coat is one of the rare coats that can be worn over work clothes without seeming to be an afterthought. Trousers and a blouse with loafers will do. If you’re wearing a blazer, ensure that your trench coat does not pull on your shoulders as a blazer adds volume to your shoulders.
Match the colors well. A navy blazer with a beige trench coat or a gray blazer with a black trench coat works well and looks coordinated without effort on your part. On days when you don’t have to wear a jacket, you can even wear the coat over your blouse and trousers.
Choosing the Right Trench Coat Color
Beige and camel are the colors most people picture. They sit well with denim and with almost any black or white top, so the coat won’t need special outfits built around it. A fitted camel or navy coat also fits the old money style described in our guide to fur and coat styling, which shows how a classic coat works with simple, polished pieces.
Black is sharper and shows lint and dust more. Olive and khaki look more casual and go well with jeans and boots. Stone and light gray are good if you want something softer than beige.
If you want a bolder color, butter yellow is the safest. Wear it open so a strip of neutral top breaks up the color, and try the shade by a window before you buy. Our yellow jacket guide explains which shades suit which skin tones.
Small Details That Change the Outfit
Tie the belt loosely in a knot if you want a more casual look, wear it buckled for a more sophisticated look, or keep it open. The first two ways are equally common and the knot will be the easiest to tie throughout the day.
Cuff the sleeves once if necessary and check where the shoulder seams sit before purchasing the coat. The trench with the seams located at the level of the shoulder blade will give you a more sophisticated look than the one whose seams fall below that level. Wear the collar down when dressing up for office and roll it up when the weather is windy.
The hemline is the final touch. The coat ending on the knee is the easiest one to combine with the shoes and skirts, while the longer coat will go well with tall ladies or a longer silhouette.
Test the coat on your current wardrobe before purchasing any new clothes. Almost all of the looks described above do not require additional clothing items.
